Day 34: L’Anse aux Meadows to St. Barbe

It started to rain just as we got up, more of a mist but enough to keep us inside for breakfast. We have indoor activities planned for today anyway, so if it must rain, so be it. We had the gorgeous day yesterday for the Viking site and a lovely walk.

We are about 2 hours away from our destination of St. Barbe, where we will take the ferry from the island of Labrador where we have been for the last 2 weeks to Labrador, same province, different land mass. The actual ferry landing is in Quebec, Blanc Sablon. Lots of history.

We drove over to St. Anthony, the major town in this region to both replenish our supplies and visit the Grenfell Mission.

We will be spending the next 5 days on roads not well travelled. We need to be sure we have everything we need. A trip to the grocery store was the first stop and replenish our staples. No more deluxe lunches out. Believe it or not, we still have brownies and 3 slices of my homemade bread left. I bought Newfoundland style bread. It looks delicious. It’s now sliced and in the freezer.

In Newfoundland, the bread is white and it is baked in buns, three to a loaf. Molasses buns might be popular, and tea buns too, but bread, good and proper and simple, is almost invariably the same.

The buns rise together, like row houses almost, and where they come together is where you’ll find the “kissing pieces,” four to a three bun loaf—pieces prized among children for their scarcity and their softness. Newfoundland youth were not immune to the apathy that children often feel about crust—a problem severe enough to warrant the introduction of the “Crust Man.” If you didn’t eat your crusts, the Crust Man would carry you off in his sack of crusts, or he might wait until they were all good and mouldy before stealing into your bedroom, sitting on your chest, and forcing you to eat them.

Note: I usually make my bread 2 to a loaf. My children used to call them ‘bum bread’.

Traditional Newfoundland bread pans were long and deep—nothing like you’ll find in the stores now.

After stocking the cupboards, fridge and freezer, we visited the Grenfell Mission Museum and Sir Grenfell’s home (which he spent little time in).

Sir Wilfred Grenfell was a medical missionary who dedicated his life to providing healthcare services to the people living in remote and isolated communities along the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador in Canada. Born in England in 1865, Grenfell trained as a medical doctor and first visited Newfoundland in 1892. Struck by the lack of healthcare services and the harsh living conditions faced by the residents, Grenfell made it his mission to improve the health and well-being of those living in the region.

Grenfell founded the Grenfell Mission in 1892, which aimed to provide medical care, education, and social services to the people of Newfoundland and Labrador. Over the years, Grenfell and his team of dedicated volunteers established hospitals, nursing stations, orphanages, and schools in the remote villages and settlements along the coast. They provided medical treatment, distributed essential supplies, and offered education and training opportunities to the local residents.

One of Grenfell’s most significant contributions was the introduction of the medical dog team, a form of transportation that enabled medical professionals to reach isolated communities in the winter when the region’s rugged terrain and harsh weather made travel by conventional means impossible. Grenfell also championed public health initiatives aimed at improving sanitation, nutrition, and hygiene practices in the communities he served.

Grenfell’s work had a profound impact on the people of Newfoundland and Labrador, helping to improve their quality of life and reduce the incidence of infectious diseases and other health issues. He was widely admired for his selfless dedication and tireless efforts to help those in need.

In addition to his work as a medical missionary, Grenfell was also a prolific writer and public speaker, using his platform to raise awareness of the health and social issues faced by the residents of Newfoundland and Labrador. He published several books and articles detailing his experiences and advocating for improved healthcare and social services in the region.

Sir Wilfred Grenfell passed away in 1940, but his legacy lives on through the work of the Grenfell Mission, which continues to provide healthcare and social services to the people of Newfoundland and Labrador. Grenfell’s compassionate spirit, innovative approach to healthcare delivery, and unwavering commitment to serving others make him a truly inspirational figure in the history of medical missionary work.

There are a lot of tourists in town. Disconcertingly there is a large cruise ship in Port. Honestly I can see why other over run tourist locations are banning them. We left town after a quick pizza. Not much of a selection of eateries.

Our campsite tonight is adjacent to the ferry terminal. It’s a fenced gravel lot with full services. It doesn’t look pretty, but at least we don’t have far to go in the morning. We have to be in the line up at 7 am. Breakfast might be cereal bars and an orange.

But, surface impressions shouldn’t decide your opinion. The campground has the nicest service building we’ve had since the resort in New Orleans! There is a full kitchen, a lounge, nice eating area with tables, showers, and the best laundry facilities so far. With 4 washing machines! I wasn’t expecting to do laundry, but I sure made advantage of such a great facility. I washed everything! I should be able to get home without washing linens again.

I was also able to get in a 2 hour side event from the UN HLPF. It was a productive afternoon as I also cleaned out some drawers and the freezer. Living in small quarters, you are constantly re-evaluating and tidying storage areas.

I heard from friends and family today who have been caught in the extreme weather caused by Hurricane Beryl. I won’t complain about a little rain. Stay safe wherever you are!

Dinner tonight is steak, broccoli and potato salad with red wine. Brownies for dessert (4 left). I would like to thank the friend at home who first introduced us to mini icecream cones (we bought more today). They are perfect for our small freezer and quite honestly, all we need.

We have to be up and out EARLY tomorrow.